Which Christmas foods should I avoid giving my dog?

Christmas is a great time of year and should be fun for all the family, dogs included. Many of us are already aware of some of the potential toxic foods our dogs can come across and take steps to avoid them.

However, the festive period is one where we often introduce all manner of exciting items into the house that we don’t normally have. Some of these things can be potentially harmful to our dogs and it’s worth knowing some of the common pitfalls.

We have tried to give you a few of the most common Christmas poisonings below. It goes without saying, if in doubt contact your vet and they will be able to advise you.

We also have a useful article on general common poisonings as well as some tips on how to avoid it happening here.
Common Christmas food dangers for dogs:

Grapes

Exactly why and how these are poisonous to dogs is unknown and the exact volume needed to cause symptoms is difficult to predict. Some dogs will eat one or two grapes and become seriously ill but others can eat many of them without apparent signs. The only way to be safe is to keep them out of reach of your dog.

Christmas Pudding, Christmas Cake and Mince Pies

These Christmas fancies are bad for dogs for a number of reasons:

Firstly - they are jam-packed full of current raisins and sultanas. These are all a variation on the ‘grape’ and as such have the same serious health risks. It is common for them to ingest far more ‘grapes’ in this form than they would fresh grapes because there are so many packed into these cakes and they are smaller.

Secondly - they are full of fat, suet etc which can often give them severe stomach troubles, vomiting etc but also, more worryingly high fat meals are one of the high risk factors leading to pancreatitis. This can be a very serious and costly disease to treat.

Thirdly – they are usually laced with large amounts of alcohol which can cause many of the symptoms of intoxication seen in people.

Chocolate coins and other choccy decorations

Most people are aware of the dangers for dogs from eating chocolate and take steps to avoid leaving any near their dogs. However, it is not uncommon for people to forget about the chocolate coins or decorations and leave them in an irresistible location. As well as the dangers of the chocolate the actual wrapping foil can be problematic as they work through the gut system.

Bones

At this time of year we often cook far more meat joints than usual and this normally results in many more bones lying about. Once cooked all bones become brittle and splinter easily. This can lead to larger fragments getting ‘stuck’ causing obstructions but also smaller pieces can cause gut irritation and perforation or even just difficulty toileting.

Most people avoid the initial pitfall of your dog ‘borrowing the bones off the work surface’ only to get caught out later on by putting the deliciously tasty smelling carcass/bone into the bin where is gets raided in the night. Make sure you dispose of the string from any meat joints as this can be a tempting toy for your dogs and could be harmful if ingested. The best thing is to take it straight outside into a sealed bin.

N.B. Birds (turkey/chicken/goose) are all hollow boned animals and as such these bones will splinter either raw or cooked and so must never be given to your dog under any circumstances.

Macadamia nuts

Within 12 hours of ingestion macadamia nuts can cause dogs to experience weakness, depression, tremors, vomiting and hyperthermia (increased body temperature). These symptoms tend to last for approximately 12 to 48 hours, and as with all the other food groups mentioned if you suspect your dog has consumed macadamia nuts note the possible quantity consumed and contact your vet.

Alcohol

We tend to use much more alcohol in our cooking at this time of year and so even normal titbits can be potentially problematic over the Christmas period. As it is for people, alcohol is also intoxicating for dogs and can cause similar unpleasant side effects.

If your dog does get into mischief and consumes any of these things then the first thing to do is contact your local vet for advice. Often the quicker treatment is sought the easier and more successful the treatment.

Please note:
This advice is not a substitute for a proper consultation with a vet and is only intended as a guide. Please contact your local veterinary practice for advice or treatment immediately if you are worried about your pet’s health - even if they are closed, they will always have an out of hours service available. Find out more about what to do in an out of hours emergency.

Source: https://www.vets-now.com/pet-owners/dog-care-advice/dangerous-foods-for-dogs-at-christmas/

12 Plants that are poisonous to cats

1. Lilies (all varieties)
Just one bite of a leaf or the flower’s pollen could cause lethargy and vomiting within one hour of consumption. If left untreated, your cat could go into kidney failure. The pollen alone can be lethal to your feline friend.

2. Any calcium oxalate plants — including philodendrons, Chinese evergreens, Virginia creepers, spinach, agaves, tea leaves, rhubarb and taro
The poisonous part of these indoor and outdoor plants are the microscopic needle-like barbs on their stems and leaves. If bitten, they cause inflammation in the mouth and gums and result in excessive drooling and vomiting.

You can take care of the symptoms yourself by giving your cat calcium in the form of milk, yoghurt, sour cream or ice cream. In rare cases, the swelling could inhibit breathing, so keep an eye on your pet for 48 hours.

3. Dracaena plants
There are about 40 varieties of this popular, leafy house-plant, including the dragon plant. If cats eat the long fronds typical of these plants, they’ll become depressed, lose their appetites and possibly even vomit blood. However, it’s usually not a fatal reaction, and symptoms tend to go away after 12 to 24 hours. Still, you should keep an eye out for worsening symptoms, and take your cat to the vet if it doesn't start to recover after 24 hours.

4. Autumn crocus
Eating any part of this flowery plant can cause an intense burning sensation in the mouth, vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures, liver damage, kidney damage and even heart arrhythmias. Get your pet to the vet immediately if you suspect he/she has snacked on it.

5. Daffodils
If you have an outdoor cat, be very wary of its tendency to get into your or your neighbours daffodil beds. Ingestion of any portion can cause vomiting, diarrhoea, abdominal pain, arrhythmias, convulsions and a major drop in blood pressure. Call your vet ASAP.

6. Tulips
If you have them planted outside, or in a vase inside, they’re a big no-no for cats. While not fatal, taking a bite of them (especially the bulb) can cause oral irritation, excessive drooling and nausea.

7. Sago palm
This long-leafed, tree-like plant is extremely poisonous to cats. It used to be mainly an outdoor plant, but now it’s often found on indoor window sills. While the seeds and pods are the most poisonous, any bite can cause bloody vomiting and diarrhea, bleeding disorders, liver failure and death. This is definitely worthy of an emergency vet trip.

8. Azaleas/rhododendrons
Even just a few leaves can result in oral irritation, vomiting and diarrhea. In severe cases, ingestion can cause a drop in blood pressure, coma and death, so you’ll want to at least give your vet a call if you notice symptoms.

9. Kalanchoe
Also known as the “mother-in-law plant,” this common indoor plant has a bunch of small, very dense flowers and is thus super-tempting to cats. However, if a cat eats any part of it, it can cause vomiting and diarrhea. In rare cases, heart arrhythmias can occur, so while not a dire emergency, a vet appointment should be made to assess the situation.

10. Marijuana
While you might think it would be funny to get a cat high, ingestion of cannabis can cause a whole host of problems. It will affect the nervous system and your pet’s coordination, then cause vomiting, diarrhea, drooling, increased heart rate, seizures and could even put it in a coma.

If you suspect he/she ate even one bud, get him/her to your vet pronto.

11. Aloe vera
It may cure your burns, but it’ll set your cat back significantly. Symptoms of ingestion include vomiting, depression, diarrhea, seizures, change in urine color and can even cause anorexia (for real). Again, not life-threatening, but the side effects if left untreated could severely affect your pet’s quality of life, so call your vet.

12. Ivy (all forms)
This is certainly relevant if you have an outdoor cat. Symptoms of ingestion include vomiting, abdominal pain, hypersalivation and diarrhea. Not fatal but certainly distressing. Make sure your pet gets lots of fluids if it eats any of the ivy leaves especially, and keep an eye out for worsening symptoms.

What to expect from your vet:

Obviously, a vet will want to know what your cat ate that made it sick. If you’re not sure, take pictures of the plants in your house and any nearby that are on this list to help your vet narrow it down. If your cat ingested a toxic plant but the symptoms are not life-threatening, she/he may suggest inducing vomit at home via charcoal tablets, so it’s a good idea to have some on hand for emergencies. However, even if you suspect a poisoning, don’t just go for the charcoal without contacting your vet first...

Source: http://www.sheknows.com/pets-and-animals/articles/1085742/plants-poisonous-to-cats

Five Reasons Your Cat’s Not Using the Litter Box

5 reasons your cat's not using the litterbox vertEvery cat owner knows the litter box is one of the most critical parts of caring for a cat. Retailers like Swell Pets offer numerous sizes, shapes of boxes and all kinds of scents and textures and materials for litter, not to mention all the accessories – scoops, cleaning wipes, poop bags and more.

And it’s a good thing all of those options are available because cats are funny about their box. Like humans, cats have their own preferences and rarely are two cats alike.

So if your cat is avoiding the litter box, don’t despair. It simply means you need to take a step back and evaluate what’s going on, from health to litter box, to your choice of litter and more.

Here are 5 reasons your cat might be avoiding the box and what you should do about them.

Medical Issues – The first thing you should do if your cat is peeing or pooping outside the box is to take him to the vet to rule out any medical issues. You may be surprised at the variety of things that cause your precious furball to go outside the box.

Cats often behave strangely when they are in pain or uncomfortable and sometimes associate this pain or discomfort with the place where they do their business. Don’t blame them…they’re trying to figure out the problem!

For example, if your cat is constipated and it’s hard for him to go #2, he might believe it’s the litter box that’s causing the issue and try to find another spot. If he has a urinary tract infection, it hurts when he uses the box so…logically he might try to go elsewhere. Get your poor sweetie to the vet promptly to rule out medical problems.

Covered Litter Boxes – The idea behind litter boxes with lids is to provide the cat some privacy and the owner some reprieve from seeing and smelling the box. But this can backfire on some cat owners when their cat simply doesn’t like to go into an enclosed space to potty.

I get lots of emails from readers who read this tip and it changed things immediately! If your cat is peeing somewhere you don’t want him to and you have a covered litter box, take off the lid and see if that helps. Let the light shine in!

Depth of the Litter – Sure, cats are finicky about the type of litter you use but you might also need to experiment with different depths of litter.

If it’s too deep your cat might dislike the feeling of sinking into quicksand, unable to get a foothold.

If it’s too shallow, hitting bottom might feel funny to your cat’s little paws. Also, have you ever noticed that cats grip the litter with their paws, especially when they are pooping? It’s important for them to feel comfortable with the surface or they will find somewhere else.

Finally, cats with longer hair may not like the feel of their fur dragging in litter that’s too deep. Play around with different options.  And, in extreme cases, try paper towels or puppy pads placed in the box. Yes, these options can get expensive, messy and stinky, but for some cats it works great.

Arthritis – When cats age, they may suffer from arthritis. If someone tells me their senior cat begins going outside the box, my first piece of advice is get him to the vet!

But then, take a look at the box. If your cat has mobility issues or any pain, it may be hard for him to get in and out of the box. Try a low-sided box or cutting one side down so your cat can easily enter and exit. Remember to sand the edges or put duct tape over them so your pretty kitty doesn’t cut himself on the jagged cut edges.

Then, consider the depth of the litter, as I mentioned above. Gripping litter might be too hard for arthritic cats so less litter in the box might work better for him.

Location – This is actually one of the first things experts recommend you consider when your cat is not using his box. If the box is near the furnace or washer/dryer, your cat might not like the strange noises.

Also, cats seem to like some privacy but not remote privacy. Don’t make them traverse too far to use the potty. I know it can be hard but it’s also important to have more than one box….and not right next to each other. To a cat, that’s pretty much one big box. If you can have boxes on each level of your house or in opposite ends of the house or apartment, that’s ideal because it gives them options...

Source: http://www.thehappylitterbox.com/

Taking Care Of Pets Can Help Children Control Their Diabetes

Owning a pet can provide emotional and mental relief for pet owners, but new research also suggests that pet ownership can assist diabetic children to control their blood sugar levels.

The study found that diabetic children who had responsibilities related to caring for their family pets were 2.5 times more likely to have blood sugar levels that fell within the normal ranges, writes Nature World News.

Researchers surveyed 23 young people, who had been diagnosed with Type 1 diabetes. Each of the participants were asked to answer a series of questions relating to responsible pet ownership, with the results being analyzed against how well each of the respondents were able to self-manage their illness.

The level of responsibility as well as attachment to the family pets were also taken into consideration by the researchers as some children state that they loved their pets but were not involved in the day-to-day care of their pets.

The researchers noted that known attributes that aid in the effective self-management of Type 1 diabetes, including family cohesion and self-regulatory behavior, were not dissimilar to the attributes needed to responsibly care for a household pet, according to a press release.

Factors including the creation of household routines and encouraging responsible behavior when looking after pets, could also positively effect how children were able to manage their blood sugar levels.

Researchers believe that the study could to identify specific behaviors and attributes that could help young patients better manage their Type 1 diabetes.

According to a report from the Centers for Disease Control and Prevention, pet ownership can have a corresponding effect on the health of their owners. Some of these benefits can include lower blood pressure levels, cholesterol, triglyceride and reducing feelings of loneliness. Pet ownership can also create new opportunities for owners to get more exercise and socialize more.

The study was published in the journal PLOS ONE.

Source: http://www.designntrend.com/articles/74883/20160427/taking-care-pets-help-children-control-diabetes.htm

Why do cats meow at you?

When you are the proud parent of a cat, there will often be a lot of questions that come to mind as you go about your day to day life interacting with your pet. For example, there are times when it may seem as though your cat is meowing for an unknown reason or no reason at all. Do they want to tell you that they are not fond of the show that you are watching on television? Maybe they are trying to express their disdain for the bird that is outside the window sitting on the porch railing.

The fact of the matter is that the answer to your question of why do cats meow could be a variety of reasons and it might simply depend on the personality that your feline child has.
Believe it or not, cats actually make a wide range of vocalizations, most of which can be distinctive sounds that will have different meanings for a variety of occasions. As a matter of fact, felines are able to make roughly 30 different sounds with their vocal chords, with about 20 of them being variations that are quite similar to a simple meow. Why could it be that your cat is meowing? Is he or she meowing at you and trying to tell you something? Or could your cat simply be expressing the feelings of the day or moment? These are some of the top reasons why your cat may be meowing day to day?

Pay Attention To Me
Many cats will start to become very vocal because they are either bored or they want to get attention in some way. As a pet owner, you never have to respond to your cat each and every time that a meow is let out. Instead, you can work on providing attention when your cat becomes quiet. Some pet owners will often walk away until their cat starts to calm down and the meowing stops.

However, you want to keep in mind that walking away is best only when it is done in the case of excessive meowing. You need to make sure that you are still spending a good deal of time with your cat each day. After all, your cat is part of your family and he or she needs to feel as such. Playing with your cat is a great way to give him a sense of connectivity while also allowing for exercise that is beneficial for overall well being.

You can also be sure that you reward your pet when he is quiet while you work to ignore constant meowing. There are times when a reward is a nice break that will stop the meowing, however you need to be strategic and realize that it can be a long training process. For reward training, you may even want to think about reaching for pieces of kibble over cat treats. The last thing that you want to do is add in too many snacks that can ruin their diet.

I’m Hungry
There are many cats that will only meow when they are hungry. If your cat has an empty bowl, the chances are she is going to let you know in one way or another. Depending on the feeding schedule that you have for your cat, you will start to notice that meowing can start close to the time that she is used to being fed. You can almost look at this as a sort of ritual where she knows that is coming and she will even start to wait around the food dish area waiting for her special meal and meowing.

She Is In Heat
If you happen to have a female cat that is around the age of five or six months and she is starting to meow and carry on all of the time, the chances are good that she is in heat and she is looking for a mate. The cry of a cat that is in heat will often range from meowing all the way up to an eerie sound that is similar to that of being in pain. You will usually see that a cat in heat will also be very affectionate to humans and other animals alike, often rubbing their back end on objects or swaying back if you pet near the rump area.

Hyperthyroidism
There are some older cats that may be developing hyperthyroidism who sill start to show a number of symptoms. In addition to an excessive amount of vocalization, cats with hyperthyroidism will start to show weight loss even though they may be eating often and there can be an excessive amount of activity. If you have a cat that seems to be showing all of these symptoms, you will want to make a vet appointment right away. A blood test and check up will be done to determine whether or not your cat has hyperthyroidism and you can then start in on a treatment program.

Hearing Or Vision Loss
A cat will often act almost like a lost child if he or she is experiencing either a loss of hearing of vision. When you start to notice that your cat has an inability to hear you calling to her or if she does not see certain things, there could be something wrong or she is simply starting to lose these things due to age. Again, if your cat is showing the signs of hearing or vision loss, you can make an appointment with your veterinarian to make sure that there is no other issue besides old age that could be addressed.

Feline Hyperesthesia Syndrome
This is a condition where a cat would normally become very hyper, get wild in the eyes and almost act as though he or she is hallucinating at times. Cats with this disorder are known for meowing often or crying loudly. Some cats may also have distinct mood swings while presenting symptoms that their skin is bothering them, the skin may almost ripple at times and it can seem as though they need to constantly groom, which could lead to eventual hair loss. It is recommended that you bring your cat to the vet if she shows signs of feline hyperesthesia syndrome.

Your Cat Is In Pain
Why do cats meow when they are in pain? Quite often, a cat will now show that he or she is in pain. However, if a cat is really hurting a lot, they will begin to cry out for your attention so that you know something is wrong. A cat that has a paw that is bothering them or even something internal, such as a urinary tract infection, will cause a cat to meow. Take the time to look at the times when your cat is meowing so that you can rule out issues that he may be having. Look at the ways in which he grooms himself, how he acts when he uses the litter box and try to take note of any changes in eating habits. If you feel as though something is wrong and your cat is in pain, which is causing the meowing, you need to make a veterinarian appointment.

Pure Boredom
The life of a cat is surely one that can seem luxurious to those of us who are often caught up in our busy day to day activities. Because a cat is not on a set schedule like we are as humans, there can often times be portions of the day where he will become bored or feel lonely. Separate from any attention that you are paying to your cat, he will more than likely look for things to do during the day. If he becomes bored, it is normal that he will start to meow or cry out to try and find things to do to pass the time.

Cats are well known for being independent, so think about having a number of distractions for your cat around the house that are available for play time whenever he is ready. This could be a scratching post or two in different rooms or even a few strategically placed mouse toys or cat nip mats. Once you place some toys that your cat loves around the house, you are sure to find that the meowing may be cut back to a minimum.

Stress
There can actually be a number of things that may stress out a cat, just as there are stressful situations that bother us as humans. Maybe there is a change in the home environment, you have moved to a new location, new people are living in your home or you added in a new animal. These are all things that can cause stress for your cat.

Whenever there are changes and your cat seems to respond with a lot of meowing, they could be telling you that they are mad or they are simply letting you know that they are aware of what is happening. Because your cat is unable to tell you how he is really feeling, you want to keep your eye out for certain behaviors and make sure that you are interacting with your pet as much as you can. When introducing a new pet, be sure that you put in the extra work to socialize the two of them so that you can avoid some of the common behavioral issues that can arise.

Just Wanting To Say Hello
Instead of trying to make a full analysis of each meow, you may simple have a cat that is just trying to say hello to you. Does your cat often meow when you are waking up in the morning or you are walking into the room he is in? This is a common greeting that a cat will give a pet owner. After a greeting, if your cat starts to quiet down, you can take it as a simple hello and he was just letting you know that he acknowledges you. It will be times when the meowing starts to get excessive when you want to worry that there may be more issues under the surface.

The Angry Cat
You will also start to notice a difference in the type of meow that your cat has when it comes to mood. If you have a cat that gets agitated and meows before lashing out, this is a common warning to humans to back off. It is important that you know the difference between a normal meow and an angry meow that can sound much more like a yowl. If any meow is accompanied by a hiss, you know that your cat is angry and it is time to allow him some space to calm down.

Why do cats meow at times? It goes to show that there can be a number of reasons why any cat would be vocal at one time or another. The longer that you are around your cat, the easier it will be for you to be able to make distinctions from one meow to the next. It is not all that uncommon for a cat to distinctive sounds for each one of their behaviors or for a variety of situations from moving to a new home or a change in food, to being bored or even having something wrong that they feel the need to warn you about.

The fact of the matter is that the more that you look into the question of why do cats meow, you are going to learn that there are even some differences from breed to breed that will lead to one meowing more than the other. Believe it or not, some cats really like to hear the sound of their own voices when they meow. Each cat comes with his or her own personality and that is part of the beauty of being the human counterpart to a vocal feline. It is all a matter of learning your cat’s personality and paying attention to any hints that she may give you day to day.

Source: http://www.catsincare.com/why-do-cats-meow-at-humans/

This Dog Is Blind, But What A Cat Does For Her Is Unbelievable….

We’re used to seeing eye dogs helping the blind, but in this video, a cat does the job just as well. With his best friend being blind, this cat has to be the eyes for his loving dog friend. In the incredible video, the cat leads the blind dog away from danger in the street. Anytime he gets too close to a car or wanders off in the wrong direction, the cat is right there to guide him. The moment the cat jumps in between the dog and the car is absolutely heartwarming. Even though the car was stationary, the cats instincts were spot on!

Source: http://www.viralvo.com/blind-dog/

8 Essential Things To Do When You See A Dog Left In A Hot Car

Summer is almost here and for most people (and dogs) that means so is the unbearable heat. Summer for humans means wearing less clothing and taking a dip in the pool or ocean, but summer for dogs can be harsh. Imagine not being able to take off your winter sweater, even when it’s 95 degrees out. It’s painful to even think about! For dogs, that is their reality...

By now we all know the rule: do not, by any means, leave your dog in your car in the summer (or ever, for that matter). According to the Humane Society of the United States, when it is 80 degrees fahrenheit outside, the inside of a car can rise up to 99 degrees fahrenheit within only 10 minutes! So that means your ten minutes in the cool grocery store to grab your milk means a painful, sweltering, and possibly deadly situation for a dog left in a car.

Now that we’ve had a refresher on the rules, the question remains – what do you do when you see someone else’s dog in a hot car? Here are a few tips from the experts:

1. Get informed.

According to the Humane Society, the first thing that you can do to help a dog in a dangerous situation is to learn the facts yourself. Check out your town or state’s laws on leaving an animal in a car. Gather the phone number of the police department’s non-emergency line and also the animal control department in your town. Be prepared so that you aren’t left trying to solve the problem at the last minute, and wasting what could be precious and critical moments for the overheated dog.

2. Take down the car’s information.

The Humane Society says that when you see a dog left in a car, immediately take down the vehicle’s model, make, color, and license plate number. These can be used to report the owner for neglect or irresponsible behavior, and also to identify who the owner is.

3. Have the owner paged.

Go into the local businesses or buildings nearby and notify a manager or security guard. Insist that they make an announcement over the intercom with the license plate number to inform the owner of the dire situation.

4. If you can’t find the owner, call the authorities.

This is when having emergency numbers saved in your phone comes in handy. Call the humane authorities or the police to come and assess the situation.

5. Do not, by any means, leave the scene.

This is probably one of the most important things to keep in mind. If you have to, have someone else watch the car and the animal while you run inside the building. According to PetMD, signs of heatstroke include restlessness, excessive thirst, heavy panting, dark tongue, rapid heartbeat, fever, vomiting, and lack of coordination. Keep a close eye on the dog for these symptoms, as it could mean that the situation needs to be acted upon very quickly.

6. If the authorities take too long, take action.

If you very honestly believe that this dog is in bad condition and showing symptoms of heatstroke, assess the situation and get a witness to back you up. Remove the dog from the heat immediately and wait for the authorities to arrive.

7. Take proper steps to care for the animal.

When the dog is removed from the hot car, the situation isn’t necessarily over yet. Get the animal into air conditioning as soon as possible and give him cool water to drink.

8. Spread awareness.

While it may seem like an easy thing to remember, some people don’t realize the dangers that heat can have on animals. Kindly remind friends and family to leave their pets at home when they run errands. The Humane Society suggests asking local businesses to hang up signs during the hotter months reminding people not to leave their dogs in their vehicles. Most importantly, if your town doesn’t have a law regarding leaving dogs in cars, attend a town meeting and start lobbying for one.

While we hope that you’ll never have to use these tips, it’s important to have them handy just in case. According to the AVMA (American Veterinary Medical Association), hundreds of pets die from heat exhaustion every year. With these tips, you may be able to lower that number.

Remember – a cool dog is a happy dog! Hot dogs are only good at barbecues!

Source: http://barkpost.com/life/dog-left-in-car/

Amazing Homemade Dog Cookie Recipe

What dog doesn’t love a good dog treat? Exactly!... The great thing about making treats yourself is you can tweak the recipe as needed for your dog allergies or dietary needs.

Kerry Dunnington’s Milk And Molasses Dog Treats


Ingredients

    -1 cup whole-wheat flour
    -1 cup unbleached all-purpose flour
    -½ cup rye flour
    -¼ cup corn flour
    -1 teaspoon salt
    -½ cup raw sunflower seeds, chopped
    -2 tablespoons olive oil
    -¼ cup molasses
    -2 eggs
    -¼ cup milk

Directions
In a large bowl, combine whole-wheat flour, all-purpose flour, rye flour, corn flour, salt and sunflower seeds.

In a medium bowl, combine olive oil, molasses, eggs and milk. Mix until well blended. Add mixture to dry ingredients.

Place dough on a lightly floured work surface and knead (the dough is dense) for 2-3 minutes to fully incorporate the dough. Cover and let the dough rest for 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 325°F

Line 2 baking sheets with parchment paper.

Roll dough out to approximately ½-inch thickness. Cut with a biscuit or bone-shaped cookie cutter. Transfer to the prepared baking sheets and bake for 25-30 minutes. Turn the oven off, but keep in the oven for an additional 30 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack and allow them to cool completely before transferring to an airtight container.












Source: http://iheartdogs.com/amazing-homemade-dog-cookie-recipes/

Ask A Vet: Why Does My Dog Stare At Me When He Poops?

You may have noticed that your dog keeps his eyes on you while he is defecating. It is not because he is embarrassed. He is not wishing you would look away or give him privacy while he “does his business”.  It goes much deeper than that. Dogs are animals and they are very tuned in to their environment and their own place in it. For survival, they must be aware of risk.

Defecation is one of the times in an animal’s life when he is at his most vulnerable. He must posture to perform the task and because of this, he is not in a position to readily fight or flee.  In fact, it would be rather difficult for him to defend himself or to escape danger while he is eliminating. Your dog is instinctively aware of his defenselessness.

But your dog also knows that she is a part of your “pack”. You are a member of the family group. If your dog watches you during this time, it is because she is depending on you to give her a body language signal or “heads up” if she should be afraid. She may also be looking to you to possibly defend her should the need arise. If you suddenly leap away, you can bet your dog will respond also.

Likewise, some dogs will not defecate with anyone watching (or on a leash). Perhaps he feels safer if he is away from your home turf where he will not draw attention. Instincts dictate your dog’s reaction to his own helplessness during this awkward time.

Whether your dog looks to you or slips away for “poop time”, it helps to know that she is just doing what comes naturally to her. You should honor her wishes as long as it is safe to do so. Try not to do anything that will startle her if she is looking at you while she defecates. Respect her natural inclination to be away and modify your environment to accommodate her as much as possible.

Source: http://iheartdogs.com/ask-a-vet-why-does-my-dog-stare-at-me-when-he-poops/

How to photograph black dogs and cats

It can be tough to get great photos of black pets, but not if you keep these 5 simple things in mind.

Black dogs and cats can be a challenge to photograph, but knowing a little bit about light, backgrounds, and exposure will ensure you get great photos of your pet!

I was photographing my dog on a hiking trail one morning and a woman walked by with her black Labrador retriever. She stopped to chat and lamented how she can’t get good photos of her dog because he’s so dark. It's a comment I hear all the time from people who have black companion animals — they want great photos but their pet turns out looking like a dark blob or is washed out from the camera’s flash. As someone who had a black Labrador for 10 years, I promise that there are a handful of simple strategies and tricks you can easily learn that will let you get amazing photos of your black pet.


Natalia Martinez photographs her dog Willow on the beach one morning. Having four black pets has given her and her husband lots of experience in the ins and outs of getting perfect portraits of darkly colored companion animals.

To put the list together, I turned to Natalia Martinez. She and her husband are the professional pet photographers behind Photo Lab Pet Photography. They have two dogs and two cats — three of which are solid black and one cat is a dark calico. If there’s anyone who has mastered the art of photographing black pets, it’s them. Some of what's in this list relies on using a camera with manual settings so you have full control over your exposure. If you’ve been looking for a chance to branch out with your camera and learn more than the point-and-shoot auto settings, this is a great opportunity. And your photographs will certainly benefit!

Think about the background
Keeping a soft, minimal background in mind will solve a lot of problems with getting great portraits of black pets.

For most photographs, your background plays a big role in making or breaking the image. But for portraits of black pets, it is especially important to consider how your background is affecting your subject in the photo.

Because you have a subject that already easily loses detail due to its color, you want to have a background that doesn't detract further. Backgrounds that are particularly busy will distract from your subject, so try to find a soft, minimal background to help your subject out stand out.

"You are already working with a strong color," says Martinez, "so it would be best suited if the background were lighter, less busy. I usually think, 'If this photograph were in black and white, would my subject stand out?' If it wouldn’t stand out well in black and white, it will likely not stand out in color either."

If you can't avoid a busy background, you can minimize the effect it has by using a wide-open aperture so that it will blur out. All the noise of the background can then become a nice soft bokeh instead, and your subject will stand apart from it.

Using a wide-open aperture will help blur out the background and make the pet stand out against it.
"Another good trick to help separate your subject from the background, especially in a studio situation, is to create a rim light. This is a light source that helps highlight the edges of your subject, placed slightly behind him," says Martinez.
You can get the effect of rim light outside the studio by having the light source (the sun, window, or whatever it may be) behind and just off to the side of your pet. The light will catch the edges of the fur creating a glowing outline around your pet.

Something else to experiment with when you have a black pet is using a black background. "Contrary to popular belief, black on black can be a really fun way to play with light and composition," says Martinez. "Take advantage of you subject’s dark coat and brightly colored eyes. In this case, I would expose for the mid tones or highlights, the results can be very cool and beautiful."

Don't forget that a black background can be a great, creative way to take portraits of a black pet.

Focus on the eyes

The eyes of a black pet usually stand out in striking contrast to their coat, so be sure that the eyes are in focus!

Eyes are important in any photograph, but especially so in portraits of black animals because they may be the only other color the animal can offer. The contrast between a black face and brown, gold, green and blue eyes can be absolutely striking. So take the extra effort to make sure you’re capturing them at their best — in focus, expressive and properly exposed.

Of course, there may be pets where the eyes are not something you’re going to easily capture, such as dogs with longer coats like in the photograph below. If that’s the case, think about the next most compelling part of the pet -- the texture of the coat, or maybe their personality as they play fetch or run around. Think about how to best highlight this feature and pursue a portrait with that in mind.

If you can't capture your pet's eyes, capture another beautiful aspect of them such as the texture of their coat.

Get enough light

Getting the right exposure is key for having your dog stand out and have plenty of detail and dimension in an outdoor scene.
The important part of showing off the details of a black pet is getting a balance between shadow and highlight, and not letting the pet be too dark in the photo. It is really easy when shooting in auto-modes to underexpose your image.Your camera will look at the scene to figure out the right settings and think that your pet isn't much more than a dark shadow. This means your photo will be too dark, with little detail of your pet standing out (and exactly why owners of black pets think it's so hard to get good portraits).

This is where shooting using manual exposure is invaluable. Be sure that you're exposing for your pet as the primary subject. You'll be able to adjust your settings so that your pet is perfectly exposed.

“I tend to expose for the shadow when I shoot,” says Martinez. “Depending on your scene, that may cause your highlights to blow out. Find a happy medium where you’ll be able to recover the highlights [in post-processing] and still bring a little light into the shadows.”

Switching to manual mode on your camera is the easiest way to control the exposure of your shot and get the most detail in your pet's portrait.

If you want to get the exposure perfect in camera and not worry about post-processing, you can fill in the shadows by using a reflector (this can even be a piece of white cardboard) to bounce light toward your subject and fill in the shadows. This is a way to bring in just a touch of soft light to break up the contrast and let the details stand out.

You can also experiment with flash. However, Martinez warns, “Flash will change the texture of your subject’s coat depending on how specular or diffused your light source is, it will catch the shiny highlights of the coat, the wet nose and create catchlights on the eyes.”


Enjoy the shade

Shade provides a natural filter for the bright light of the sun, providing soft, beautiful light for your pet's portrait.

Beware of too much contrast in your photos. Harsh sunlight will give your pet a bright glare on some parts of their coat and solid black shadows in other parts, and there will be very little detail that can stand out between the two extremes. Moving your pet into the shade to soften the light and provide a more even exposure will help quite a bit.

When in the shade, though, avoid brightly dappled light, which will be as distracting on and around your pet as being in the bright sunlight.

Another great option to get nice even light on your pet is how you angle them toward the light source. "If you are shooting by a window or similar situation (which provides gorgeous light by the way), try and angle your subject towards the window," says Martinez. "Even if they are looking at you, that slight angle will help highlight their features."

Windows provide excellent natural light. Take advantage of them when shooting indoors.

Don’t be afraid of shadows and silhouettes

You have a "walking silhouette" in your black pet, so don't be afraid to play with shadows and silhouettes when capturing portraits.
While you may be trying to learn tricks that will allow you to capture the most detail and dimension in your black pet, don't be afraid to have fun with what comes easiest: shadows and silhouettes.

Martinez notes, "When photographing black dogs or cats, remember you have a walking silhouette, so play with that! Have fun setting them against windows or sunrises and sunsets, they will stand out beautifully."

Take advantage of moments like the silhouette of your cat walking along a fence against a gorgeous sky, or silhouetted against the front window of your living room where they love looking out at the birds in the yard. Capture the silhouette of your dog running along the beach at sunrise, or sitting next to a pond at sunset. Have fun with shadows where only your pet's eyes and maybe a little detail from their ear stand out from the dark. These all can make amazing portraits.

Source: http://www.mnn.com/family/pets/stories/how-to-photograph-black-dogs-and-cats

4 Essential commands to teach your puppy

Along with cuddling and playing with your new precious puppy, it’s always a good idea to start teaching commands early. The earlier you start training, the better. I say this from experience.

When I first brought my Chihuahua, Diego, home, I was so wrapped up with finding him the perfect treats, toys, beds, collars, and shirts. Other than potty and leash training, my mind was far from teaching him commands. When I realized he was nearly one-year-old and still didn't know how to sit, I realized I had made a big mistake. I'm not going to sugar-coat this — training my little Diego was a nightmare. Since he was used to getting treats without having to work for them, he felt no need to do what I said. My treat leverage was gone. I learned from my mistake, though. That’s why when I brought my Poodle, Gigi, home, I started her training immediately. Within a matter of five minutes, she knew how to sit. It took about two days for her to understand the word ‘down.’ Another command that came naturally for her was ‘come.’

Please use my mistake as a learning lesson and start training your new puppy immediately! Training doesn’t have to be time-consuming. Since your puppy’s attention span isn't that long, aim for 10-minute sessions. This little amount of time makes a world of difference. Trust me, being able to communicate with your pooch is life-changing.

COMMANDS TO TEACH YOUR PUPPY

1) SIT

This is usually the first command dog parent’s teach their little ones. That’s probably because it’s one of the easiest.

Here are a few tips to help you teach your dog how to sit:

- Hold a small training treat close to your dog’s nose.
- Slowly move your hand up. This will cause your dog to look up and his bottom will lower. You shouldn't need to press your dog’s tush to the floor. Let it come naturally.
- As your dog enters the sitting position, say “sit.”
- Give him the treat and lots of praise.
- Repeat this process several times.
- Once your dog is comfortable with this process, start saying the command before he enters the sitting position.

Practice this every day!

2) STAY

This command teaches your dog self-control. Once your dog has mastered “sit,” move on to “stay.”

Here are a few tips to help you teach your dog how to stay:

- Show your dog a treat and ask him to enter the sitting position.
- Still holding the treat in front of your dog, tell him to “stay.”
Then, take a small step back.
- If your dog stays, give him the treat and lots of praise.
- As your dog gets comfortable with the small step, gradually increase the number of steps you take before giving him the treat.
- Remember to always reward your pup when he stays.

3) COME

This is perhaps the most important command you can teach your dog. Chances are there will be a time you accidentally drop the leash or leave the door open. If your dog comes when called, it will help keep him out of trouble.

Here are a few tips to help you teach your dog how to come when called:

- When you are first teaching your dog to come, put your dog’s leash on.
- Get down on your knees — to your dog’s level.
- Tell your dog to “come” while gently tugging on the leash.
- Make sure to celebrate when your dog comes to you. Reward him with treats and lots of praise.

As you are praising your dog, gently pet or rub his neck. This will teach your dog that when he comes to you that he must come close.

4) LEAVE IT

Puppies are curious creatures. As they explore the world for the first time, they will smell things, lick things and try to eat things they shouldn’t. Teaching your dog the command ‘leave it’ is just one more way you can help keep your fur kid safe.

Since this command is taught in several stages, I think it’s easier to see training tips in action than to read them. Check out this great video from rockstar trainer Victoria Stillwell (note: make sure to watch the entire video):

Teaching the 'Leave It' Cue | Teacher's Pet With Victoria Stilwell:

Source: http://www.prouddogmom.com/4-essential-commands-to-teach-your-dog/

9 Great Differences Between Cat Lovers and Dog Lovers

Source: http://womanitely.com/differences-cat-lovers-dog-lovers/

Personally I do not see any difference between cat lovers and dog lovers, because I have cats and dogs, and love them all without exception. I cannot even tell if I am a cat person or a dog person. But studies prove that there are many differences between people who own kittens and those who own puppies. It is known that 74-96 million cats and 70-80 million dogs and are owned in the United States.

In 2014, Denise Guastello, an associate professor of psychology at Carroll University conducted a research that showed that cat people and dog people have different personalities. I believe the difference is visible and understandable only when a person knows exactly what animals they love most. Either way, here are 9 great differences between cat and dog lovers.

1. Cat lovers are not afraid to be alone
Wonder why so many lonely girls own cats? This is probably an answer to your question. Cat people crave solitude and they love to spend time and live alone. Dog lovers, on the contrary, enjoy the company and they have trouble living alone. Now I realize that I love both solitude and company, phew.

2. Dog lovers seek companionship
One of the reasons why people adopt or buy dogs is because they look for long-term companionship. Cat people expect from their pets affection rather than companionship. Remember they love solitude?

Dogs adore companionship too. My friend, who is a big dog lover, says, “the best thing about owning a dog is companionship. When I come home, my puppy comes to greet me as if he has not seen me for ages.”

3. Cat lovers tend to ignore rules
Dogs are less clumsy and more obedient than cats. While it is extremely hard to make a cat to walk with you in the park or teach them to sit or lie down when needed, dogs do those things easily. The same goes for dog lovers – they follow the rules and obey when needed. Cat people have tendency to rebel or ignore the rules they do not like.

4. Cat people are highly sensitive
Sensitivity is a good trait that mostly cat people possess. It does not mean dog lovers are selfish or know nothing about compassion. They simply strive to think rationally and do not let their hearts to worry about the things that make no sense in their lives.

5. Cat lovers are more independent
This is obvious. Cats love independence and their owners keep up with them. They do not bother about a single life. They have enough strength to survive the hard times all alone and cope with any problem without any help. Dog people enjoy codependency and have trouble solving their problems without someone else’s help, though there are exceptions, of course.

6. Dog owners trust people
Dog people have wonderful listening skills and high trust levels. They have a tendency to believe in anything others say, while cat owners check the information twice before saying that it is correct. Cat owners have some trust issues, but they rarely suffer from cheating and betrayal.

7. Cat lovers are incredibly creative
Imaginativeness and creativity are 2 words that describe cat owners. Their unique, bright, weird and silly ideas astonish everyone around them. Dog lovers have a high creativity level as well, but few of them develop their imaginativeness and creativity.


Source: http://womanitely.com/differences-cat-lovers-dog-lovers/

The 5 Best Cat Breeds For An Indoor-only

Source: http://www.pets4homes.co.uk/

In the UK, the vast majority of our domestic cats are what are known as indoor-outdoor cats, meaning that they have independent access to the outside world, either by means of having a cat flap so that they can come and go as they please, or by means of being let out and let back in at certain times of the day. In order countries such as the USA however, it is much more common for cats to be kept as indoor-only pets, due to the presence of potential dangers or predators, such as other animals, busy traffic, and disease and illness.


Even within the UK, it is certainly not unheard of to keep cats indoors only, and the reasons behind why an owner might make this choice are varied and numerous-cats with immune deficiencies such as FeLV or FIV often live indoors only, and people that live in flats and apartments might be unable to give their cats access to the outside world too.


Additionally, certain breeds of cats are naturally better suited to an indoor-only life rather than being able to go out unsupervised, and some cats that could potentially go out also find that indoor-only life is not too restricting and can still remain happy.


In this article, we will look at five of the best cat breeds for an indoor-only home. Read on to learn more.


The Sphynx


The Sphynx cat is one of the most distinctive, recognisable breeds out there, because of their main defining feature-baldness! Sphynx cats may have a small amount of very sparse, downy hair on their bodies or may be virtually or literally bald, and the fact that this breed does not have a fur coat means not only that they are well suited to indoor life, but that this is often the best choice for them, due to the challenges of their going outside.


In the wintertime, the Sphynx is apt to become much too cold very quickly if they go outside, while in the summer, they are at high risk of sunburn and other issues related to the heat and bright weather.


Most Sphynx cats are kept indoors only, or mainly indoors with a run to allow them to take the air, or possibly, even a harness to go for supervised walks!


The Ragdoll


The Ragdoll is a large, longhaired cat that is both beautiful and very gentle and affectionate, being distinctive for their propensity to fall limp when lifted up. They are sweet, loving cats that do not have as much of a sense of adventure as most other breeds, meaning that they are unlikely to miss the chance to go outside, and will adapt well to living indoors.


The Ragdoll is also renowned for not being very streetwise, and in some cases, the decision to keep cats of the breed inside is made for their safety above all.


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The Ragamuffin


The Ragamuffin is a very close relative of the Ragdoll, and the decision to class the Ragamuffin as a separate breed was made largely due to the politics of the breed name and what cats could be designated as such, rather than due to a large divergence between the two breeds.


Ragamuffins can be seen in more colour and pattern variations than the Ragdoll itself, but aside from this, the two breeds have more in common than they do apart. For this same reason, the Ragamuffin usually does well inside, and might not even be streetwise enough to be able to go out safely without supervision.


The Munchkin


The Munchkin cat is one of the most unusual looking of cats, and is almost certainly the breed that generates the most controversy! The Munchkin’s main trail is the shortness of their legs, which is caused by a form of achondroplasia, or dwarfism. This means that cats of the breed cannot run, climb or jump as freely as other breeds, which can affect their safety and survival when outside.


Aside from this, the breed is reputed to be outgoing, friendly and playful-but they are also prone to certain types of health problems, which come as an additional effect of their dwarfism. For this reason, the breed is not accepted or recognised by the GCCF, and so they are not actually seen as a pedigree breed in the UK.


The Scottish Fold


The Scottish Fold is another unusual looking cat, this time due to their ears! As the name implies, the ears of the Scottish fold are folded over, giving cats of the breed a very distinctive and cute appearance! However, once again, selective breeding to reliably reproduce the genetic anomaly that causes the folded over ears can also lead to other anomalies for the cat, some of which are detrimental to their health and wellness, which means that often, keeping such cats inside is wise.


Again, the GCCF does not recognise or endorse this breed of cat, due to the potential risk of health problems.

Source: http://www.pets4homes.co.uk/pet-advice/the-5-best-cat-breeds-for-an-indoor-only-home.html

Basic first aid for dogs

Every year, hundreds of dogs in the UK are involved in road accidents, suffer from heatstroke or swallow poisonous substances. Knowing what to do in an emergency could save your pet’s life.
In emergency situations:

   -  First ensure the safety of yourself and others. Keep calm and assess the situation before acting. Injured animals are frightened and in pain and may try to bite anyone who touches them.
   -  Contact the vet. Keep your vet's phone number to hand and know the name of the practice.
    - Always phone first, whatever the situation, as there may not always be a vet available but staff may be able to suggest immediate action you can take
   -  Have a pen handy in case another number is given. Treatment can usually be provided more quickly if the dog is taken to the surgery, rather than if the vet is called out.
    - If there is a risk of biting, put a muzzle on the dog, or wrap tape around the nose and tie behind the ears, unless the dog has difficulty breathing. Small dogs may be restrained by putting a thick towel over their heads.
   -  Never give human medicines to a dog – many will do more harm than good. Do not offer food or drink in case anaesthetic is needed.
    - Drive carefully when taking the patient to the surgery
   -  If you do get bitten, see your doctor


Is it an emergency?

Sometimes, outside normal hours, it is difficult to decide whether urgent attention is needed. You can always call and ask for advice.

You should phone the vet if:

    - your pet seems weak, is reluctant to get up, or is dull and depressed
    - there is difficulty breathing, or it is noisy or rapid, or if there is continual coughing causing distress
    - there is repeated vomiting, particularly with young or elderly animals. Diarrhoea is less serious, unless severe, bloody or the animal seems weak or unwell. Feed small amounts of a bland diet (boiled chicken or white fish) and see a vet if it persists for over a day (see the leaflet, Caring for your sick dog.
    - your dog appears to be in severe pain or discomfort
    - your pet is trying to urinate or defecate and is unable to. Blockage of the bladder sometimes occurs, especially in males, and can kill if not treated urgently.
   -  there are sudden difficulties with balance
    - a bitch with suckling puppies is agitated, shaking and shivering and will not settle. It could be eclampsia, which needs urgent treatment.


Road accidents

Prevention is better than cure. Even a well-behaved dog should be kept on a lead anywhere near traffic, including slow moving vehicles. Do not have the collar so loose that the dog can get free.

If the worst happens, beware of other cars. Talk gently to the dog as you approach. Move slowly and avoid making sudden movements. Put a lead on if possible and, if necessary, muzzle before handling. If your dog can walk, go to the vet, even if there appears to be no pain. There may be internal injuries that are not immediately obvious.

If the dog cannot walk, small dogs can be picked up by placing one hand at the front of the chest and the other under the hindquarters. Improvise a stretcher for larger dogs with a coat or a blanket. If the dog is paralysed, there may be a spinal injury, so try to find something rigid, such as a board. Slide the patient gently on to this if possible. Cover with a blanket to reduce heat loss.
Bleeding

Keep the dog quiet and calm. Put on a tight bandage. Improvise with a towel or some clothing if necessary. If blood is seeping through, apply another tight layer. Only use a tourniquet as a last resort. For places you cannot bandage, press a pad firmly onto the wound and hold it in place. Get to the vet straight away.

If you have bandaging materials, place a non-adhesive dressing on the wound and cover with swabs or cotton bandage. Then place a layer of cotton wool. Cover this with more cotton bandage. Stick this to the hair at the top with surgical tape, and cover the whole with adhesive bandage or tape. Do not stick elastoplast to the dog’s hair. When bandaging limbs, the foot should be included or it may swell up. Never leave a bandage on for more than 24 hours.
Broken bones

Deal with serious bleeding but do not apply a splint – it is painful and can cause the bone to break through the skin. Confine the patient for transport to the vet. Smaller dogs can be put in a box.
Burns and scalds

Run cold water over these for at least five minutes, then contact the vet. Do not apply ointments or creams but if there is going to be a delay getting to the vets, you can apply saline soaked dressing to the area. Keep the patient warm.
Poisoning

Try to find packaging from the substance swallowed and have it with you when you phone the vet. If chewing plants is suspected, try to find out the identity of the plant. Call the vet immediately. Do not make your dog sick unless the vet says to do so.
Swollen tummy

If this happens suddenly, treat it seriously, especially if the dog is a deep chested breed such as a boxer or mastiff. There may also be gulping, dribbling of saliva and attempts to vomit. It could mean there is a life-threatening twist in the stomach. Phone the vet immediately – do not delay.
Ball stuck in throat

Get to the vet quickly. Or you may be able to push the ball out by pushing on the throat/neck from the outside.

If the gums or tongue are turning blue or the dog has collapsed, try the following. You will need someone to help you. One person holds the mouth open, while the other reaches inside. Be careful not to get bitten. If you cannot pull the ball out, lay the pet on their side. Push down suddenly and sharply on the tummy just behind the last rib. The person holding the mouth should be ready to grab the ball as it reappears.
Coat contamination

If a substance such as paint or tar has got onto the coat or paws, prevent the dog from licking, as it may be toxic. Use an Elizabethan collar (obtainable from vets) if you have one. You may be able to clip off small areas of affected hair. Never use turpentine or paint removers on your dog. You can sometimes remove paint and other substances by bathing the dog in washing up liquid or swarfega, but if a large area is affected, see the vet.
Heat stroke

If on a warm or hot day your dog is panting heavily and is distressed and especially if the dog is short nosed (eg a boxer), overweight or has been playing or exercising, think heatstroke! Put the dog somewhere cool, preferably in a draught. Wet the coat with tepid water (cold water contracts the blood vessels in the skin and slows heat loss) and phone the vet. You can offer a small amount of water.
Fits

If your dog is having a fit, do not try to hold or comfort the dog, as this provides stimulation, which may prolong the fit. Darken the room and reduce noise.

Remove items, especially anything electrical, away from the dog so they cannot cause injury. Pad furniture with cushions. Call the vet.
Fights

If your dog seems shocked, dull or distressed after a fight, call the vet. Otherwise, look at the wound. Puncture wounds to the head or body mean you should consult a vet right away. Injuries to the limbs may not need immediate treatment, unless severe or very painful, but take the dog to the vet within 24 hours, as antibiotics may be required.
Eye injuries

If the eye is bulging out of the socket, apply a wet dressing, prevent rubbing or scratching and call the vet. If chemicals have got into the eye, flush with water repeatedly (preferably from an eye drop bottle) and call the vet.
Drowning

Never put yourself at risk by attempting to rescue a dog.

Wipe away material from the mouth and nose. Hold the dog upside down by the hind legs until the water has drained out. Give resuscitation if breathing has stopped. Even if your pet seems to recover, always see the vet as complications afterwards are common.
Electric shock

If a high voltage supply is involved (non‑domestic, for example, power lines), do not approach. Call the police.

In the home, turn off power first. If this is impossible, you may be able to use a dry non-metallic item, like a broom handle, to push the dog away from the power source. If breathing has stopped, give resuscitation. Call the vet immediately.
Stings

Pull out the sting below the poison sac, then bathe the area in water or use a solution of bicarbonate of soda if available. Applying ice will help to soothe. If the sting is in the mouth or throat, contact the vet as it may swell and interfere with breathing.

Basic resuscitation

    - Put the animal on their side
    - Check that breathing has definitely stopped (hold a wisp of fur to the nostrils)
    - Open the mouth, pull the tongue forwards and check for obstructions, such as blood. Be careful not to get bitten when removing any material.
    - If breathing does not start, extend the head (nose pointing forwards). Hold the mouth closed and blow into the nose about 20 times a minute. If you cannot feel a heartbeat, push on the chest just behind the front legs every second. Give two breaths into the nose for every 15 compressions of the chest. If this is unsuccessful after three minutes, recovery is unlikely.


Your first aid kit should include:

    - bandages – a roll of self-adhesive or crepe bandage (5cm width)
    - conforming/open-weave bandages (2.5cm width)
   -  some non-adhesive absorbent dressings (5cm x 5cm) to cover open wounds
   -  surgical sticky tape
   -  a box of cotton wool
   -  a box of sterile absorbent gauze
   -  blunt ended scissors, preferably curved
    - a thick towel
    - an Elizabethan collar

Source: https://www.bluecross.org.uk/pet-advice/basic-first-aid-dogs

House-training an adult dog

Through no fault of their own, some pet dogs reach adulthood without being fully house trained. Fortunately, with time and patience, it is possible to establish new habits and teach your dog to stay clean in the house.

Not all dogs are house trained

Although it is quite easy to house-train a puppy, things can and do go wrong with this process if it isn’t done correctly. Not everyone tries to house-train their dogs, for example if they are kennelled outside. This means that some pet dogs reach adulthood having not been fully house-trained. Luckily, in most cases, house-training an adult dog is quite simple and new habits can be taught quickly. However, it does require time and patience, and if you want your dog to do well you need to make sure you are dedicated. How long it takes depends on:

    - how well you keep to the routine
    - how quickly your dog learns
    - how old your dog is
    - what experience your dog has had in the past.                     

Other reasons for not being clean in the house

As well as not being house trained, there are many other reasons why a dog will go to the toilet in the house. Some of these are:

   -  stress and tension in the household
    - anxiety about being left alone
    - territory marking
    - feeling poorly.

Symptoms of lack of house training

Usually just a few areas in the house are used as the toilet. These are usually near the exit or entry points of the rooms used and the dog will return to these sites again and again.

Some dogs may urinate and defecate in the house, or urinate in the house only and defecate outside, while others will defecate in the house but not urinate.

Usually, but not always, a dog will sneak away to go to the toilet rather than go in front of humans. Your dog may do this at any time, not just when left alone in the house. Even after a walk, your dog may come back to the house and go to the toilet.

Some dogs learn just one thing about house-training – that it is wrong to go to the toilet in the house in front of their owners. This is because they would have been scolded or punished if caught going to the loo in the house.

Puppies are often put out into the garden and left there. Once outside, a puppy that finds being alone very uncomfortable concentrates on getting back inside to their owner, rather than learning to go to the toilet outside.

This means that dogs often learn that it is wrong to go in the presence of people but never learn that it is wrong to go in the house. For dogs who have learned this, the only option is to wait until the owner is not looking or sneak away into another room when they want to relieve themselves. Dogs who are worried about going to the toilet in front of people may take longer to house-train than others, so you will need to extra patient in your training.

What to do
 
Before starting the new routine

Carefully clean all areas where your dog has previously ‘been’ using a warm solution of biological washing powder (for example, a teaspoon of powder dissolved in a cup of warm water) or a specially formulated product from your vet, which will remove all traces of the smell from your house.
Every day

When you first wake up, last thing at night and very regularly during the day, take your dog outside to a place in your garden that you have chosen. Put soiled newspaper or faeces in this area as the smell will help your dog to know where to go to the toilet. Let your dog walk up and down or run about and sniff the area (both exercise and sniffing help stimulate going to the loo).

Avoid playing exciting games in the garden during this process, as this is likely to distract your dog from the main purpose of going outside! If they want to come back inside straight away, or look confused, patiently walk up and down slowly to encourage them to move about and sniff the ground. Stay outside with your dog until they have done their business at which point you can give gentle praise.

If they still haven’t gone to the toilet after five minutes, come back inside the house, but keep a very close eye on them. Repeat this process 20 minutes later (and 20 minutes after that if they still haven’t gone) and hopefully your dog will eventually toilet in the right place. Set aside lots of time for this and be prepared for several visits to the garden at first as this is a new routine your dog will have to learn. Be patient and your persistence will eventually pay off!

Between trips to the garden, supervise your dog when in the house. This means keeping your dog in view at all times and being aware of what they are doing – this is especially important in the first two weeks of this training. Pay particular attention to the times after your dog has eaten, woken up or after periods of excitement, such as play.
Signs to look for

Watch for the typical signs that your dog needs to go to the toilet – these may include sniffing the floor, circling, looking restless or going into a room they have previously toileted in. Take your dog immediately to your chosen place in the garden and wait patiently until they have done their business and praise gently.

Dog crates (also known as indoor kennels)

Dog crates are a fantastic tool to use during this process if used correctly. Dogs rarely soil their own beds and if your dog is used to a crate, you can pop them in there for short periods when you cannot directly supervise or have to concentrate on other things. If your dog isn’t used to a dog crate, refer to our ‘indoor kennel’ leaflet to help them get used to being left in there for short periods of time. It’s important to help them feel comfortable, otherwise they may become distressed which can lead to toileting.

When you cannot supervise directly

When you go out

During the initial stages of this training, it’s best not to leave your dog alone at all - ideally you should wait until their new toileting habits are well established.
If you do have to go out and it is for less than two hours, you could leave your dog in the dog crate, but only if you know they will be able to cope with this. Make sure your dog has had the chance to exercise and go to the toilet before you leave them. If you will be out for longer than this, leave your dog in one room only, preferably one that is easy to clean, should there be any ‘accidents’. You could leave out some paper for dog to toilet on should they need to go, or cover the area with a large sheet of polythene. While this won’t teach your dog where you would like them to go to the toilet, it will make any mess easier to clean up and stops the area becoming soiled.
At night

Most adult dogs will sleep during the night and won’t need to go to the toilet. However, some may still need to go, especially if they haven’t got the hang of doing their business outside yet.

The easiest solution is to put your dog’s bed or crate either in your bedroom or nearby. If they are outside the bedroom, leave your bedroom door open so that if your dog wakes up and needs to go during the night, you will hear whining or moving around. Get up and calmly take your dog outside, following the daytime routine. Put your dog back to bed quietly when you come back in. At night, it is especially important not to excite your dog in anyway as you don’t want them to learn that going out into the garden in the early hours is ‘fun’!

If you are unable to have your dog near your bedroom and you are waking up to a few accidents, then you will have to set an alarm clock and experiment with the time in which to get up to see if you can coincide it with the time in which your dog needs to go. Although this sounds like a lot of sleepless nights for you, it shouldn’t last for long, only until new habits have been established.
If you find a puddle or mess

It’s important not to punish your dog for any ‘accidents’ discovered too late. You may feel angry or frustrated, but dogs are unable to associate your feelings of annoyance with something that happened in the past or when you were not there, so it won’t teach them anything constructive. Instead it’s likely to make things worse as your dog will become even more anxious about your return home (as they will begin to anticipate a telling off), which may cause even more toileting indoors. If your dog has gone to the toilet– greet them in the normal happy way before cleaning up any mess.
“He knows he has done wrong!”

Some owners say: “He knows he has done wrong, because he looks guilty”. In fact, this look is known as ‘appeasement’ behaviour – shown because the dog feels worried.

Appeasement behaviour can look like guilt to us and we often mistakenly believe the dog knows what they have done is wrong. We then think that any mess in the house has been done on purpose or because the dog is too lazy to go outside.

Unfortunately, this means that we are likely to punish more as a result.

Dogs that look guilty are doing nothing more than responding to an owner’s disappointment, upset or anger and it is their way of diffusing tension in response to feeling threatened. Some dogs will also do this if they anticipate being told off if they have been so frequently in the past. If you do see your dog respond in this way, it is important to be consistent when you get home and greet them in a calm and happy way.

Establishing the routine

You need to continue with this routine for at least two weeks, although some dogs may need extra time and help. During this process, your dog learns about getting praise for going to the toilet outside and, since they don’t have the chance to go inside, they will get into the habit of going outside instead. Throughout the first few weeks and for a while afterwards, continue to go out with your pet to the garden in order to praise them until your dog knows exactly what to do.

After two weeks of the above routine, gradually increase the time between visits to the garden. Your dog will eventually want to go to the toilet at a time other than the one you choose. At this time, your dog will probably become more active or may wander over to the door. Watch for a change in their behaviour and take them out quickly. Gradually, as you start to recognise the signs that mean your dog needs to go, you can relax your supervision in the house. Some dogs may need reminding regularly (especially those who have a history of house-soiling), so make sure you give them plenty of opportunities to relieve themselves outside.

House-training will happen more easily if you keep to the same routine of feeding and exercising each day.

Although housetraining a dog can be hard work and tiring - be patient and consistent, and all your efforts should pay off!

Source: https://www.bluecross.org.uk/pet-advice/house-training-adult-dog

Top 100 Most Popular Names For Dogs

Written by Karen Harris

Ready to bring a new dog into your home? CONGRATULATIONS! (And thank you for providing a pup with a happy and loving home.)

Now comes the next challenge: what should you name your new little (or big!) bundle of joy?!

Here are 100 popular pooch names for both male and female dogs. Hopefully this can provide you with a little inspiration on what to call your new furry family member! Or, if you already have a dog, see if your dog’s name made the list!

(Please note: Some names listed are unisex.)


50 Names For Female Dogs:

Bella
Pepper
Elsa
Ella
Hope
Stella
Abby
Annie
Aspen
Daisy
Evie
Georgia
Ginger
Jazzy
Brooklyn
Lilly
Rosie
Poppy
Molly
Penny
Maggie
Ruby
Roxie
Scarlett
Lucy
Luna
Scout
Lila
Princess
Piper
Coco
Lulu
Trixie
Skye
Sophie
Chloe
Sadie
Maya
Gracie
Honey
Sasha
Dixie
Heidi
Lady
Holly
Sandy
Maui
Kona
Bailey
Marley


50  Names For Male Dogs:

Apollo
Champ
Ace
Blue
Chase
Shadow
Cody
Jax
Cooper
Finn
Harley
Kai
Levi
Baxter
Hunter
Spike
Max
Ollie
Jake
Logan
Dakota
Riley
Tucker
Bruno
Boomer
Scout
Bear
Dexter
Toby
Rocky
Buster
Gizmo
Jack
Milo
Bruno
Romeo
Duke
Buddy
Bentley
Jasper
Gus
Zeus
Winston
Rufus
Roscoe
Otis
Parker
Buddha
Chance
Tank

Source: http://iheartdogs.com/top-100-most-popular-names-for-dogs/

5 essential commands you can teach your dog

By Juliana Weiss-Roessler

Having a trained dog isn’t the same as having a balanced dog, but if your dog knows a few basic commands, it can be helpful when tackling problem behaviors — existing ones or those that may develop in the future.

So where do you start with dog obedience training? You could take a class, but it’s not necessary; you can do it yourself. In fact, with the right attitude, it can be fun for both you and your dog!

Source: www.cesarsway.com

Sit
This is one of the easiest dog obedience commands to teach, so it’s a good one to start with.

- Hold a treat close to your dog’s nose.
- Move your hand up, allowing his head to follow the treat and causing his bottom to lower.
- Once he’s in sitting position, say “Sit,” give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat this sequence a few times every day until your dog has it mastered. Then ask your dog to sit before mealtime, when leaving for walks, and during other situations where you’d like him calm and seated.

Come
This command can help keep a dog out of trouble, bringing him back to you if you lose grip on the leash or accidentally leave the front door open.

- Put a leash and collar on your dog.
- Go down to his level and say, “Come,” while gently pulling on the leash.
- When he gets to you, reward him with affection and a treat.
Once he’s mastered it with the leash, remove it — and practice the command in a safe, enclosed area.

Down
This can be one of the more difficult commands in dog obedience training. Why? Because the position is a submissive posture. You can help by keeping training positive and relaxed, particularly with fearful or anxious dogs.

- Find a particularly good smelling treat, and hold it in your closed fist.
- Hold your hand up to your dog’s snout. When he sniffs it, move your hand to the floor, so he follows.
- Then slide your hand along the ground in front of him to encourage his body to follow his head.
- Once he’s in the down position, say “Down,” give him the treat, and share affection.
Repeat it every day. If your dog tries to sit up or lunges toward your hand, say “No” and take your hand away. Don’t push him into a down position, and encourage every step your dog takes toward the right position. After all, he’s working hard to figure it out!

Stay
Before attempting this one, make sure your dog is an expert at the “Sit” command.

- First, ask your dog to “Sit.”
- Then open the palm of your hand in front of you, and say “Stay.”
- Take a few steps back. Reward him with a treat and affection if he stays.
- Gradually increase the number of steps you take before giving the treat.
- Always reward your pup for staying put — even if it’s just for a few seconds.
This is an exercise in self-control for your dog, so don’t be discouraged if it takes a while to master, particularly for puppies and high-energy dogs. After all, they want to be on the move and not just sitting there waiting.

Leave it
This can help keep your dog safe when his curiosity gets the better of him, like if he smells something intriguing but possibly dangerous on the ground! The goal is to teach your pup that he gets something even better for ignoring the other item.

Place a treat in both hands.
- Show him one enclosed fist with the treat inside, and say, “Leave it.”
- Let him lick, sniff, mouth, paw, and bark to try to get it — and ignore the behaviors.
- Once he stops trying, give him the treat from the other hand.
- Repeat until your dog moves away from that first fist when you say, “Leave it.”
- Next, only give your dog the treat when he moves away from that first fist and also looks up at you.
- Once your dog consistently moves away from the first treat and gives you eye contact when you say the command, you’re ready to take it up a notch. For this, use two different treats — one that’s just all right and one that’s a particularly good smelling and tasty favorite for your pup.

Say “Leave it,” place the less attractive treat on the floor, and cover it with your hand.
Wait until your dog ignores that treat and looks at you. Then remove that treat from the floor, give him the better treat and share affection immediately.
Once he’s got it, place the less tasty treat on the floor… but don’t completely cover it with your hand. Instead hold it a little bit above the treat. Over time, gradually move your hand farther and farther away until your hand is about 6 inches above.

Now he’s ready to practice with you standing up! Follow the same steps, but if he tries to snatch the less tasty treat, cover it with your foot.

Don’t rush the process. Remember, you’re asking a lot of your dog. If you take it up a notch and he’s really struggling, go back to the previous stage.

Just these five simple commands can help keep your dog safer and improve your communication with him. It’s well worth the investment of your time and effort. Remember, the process takes time, so only start a dog obedience training session if you’re in the right mindset to practice calm-assertive energy and patience.

Source: https://www.cesarsway.com/dog-training/obedience/5-essential-commands-you-can-teach-your-dog